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走近香奈兒官方紀(jì)錄片

INSIDE CHANEL CHAPTER 1 

For the first time, a couturier revolutionizes the insular world of perfume by creating in 1921 her own fragrance, the first of its kind. Coco Chanel seeks, in her own words, "a woman's perfume with a woman's scent." Her scent should be as important as her style of dress. "A woman," she says, "should wear perfume wherever she would like to be kissed."  

  一名女裝設(shè)計(jì)師為封閉保守的香水業(yè)帶來了變革。1921年， 她創(chuàng)造了她獨(dú)一無二的香水，史無前例。用她自己的話來說，可可·香奈兒追求的是“一瓶聞上去有女人味的香水”。她的氣味應(yīng)該和她的著裝風(fēng)格一樣重要。她說:“女人，應(yīng)該在任何她希望被親吻的地方使用香水?！?/span>

For the first time, N°5 defies the conventions of perfume, which glorify single flower fragrances. Coco Chanel calls upon Ernest Beaux(恩尼斯·鮑), perfumer to the Czars in search of inspiration.  Ernest Beaux ventures as far as the Arctic circle, finding his muse in the exhilarating air issuing from the northern lakes under the midnight sun.

   第一次，N°5打破了慣例， 在那個(gè)崇尚單一花香調(diào)的時(shí)代。可可香奈兒邀請(qǐng)俄國沙皇御用調(diào)香師恩尼斯.鮑為她存在靈感。恩尼斯.鮑甚至跋涉到北極圈，在冰寒的空氣中尋找香水的繆斯，徘徊于北方午夜極晝下的湖邊。 

The couturier encourages him to be ever more audacious, demanding still more jasmine, the most precious of essences. May rose, Haitian vetiver(海地巖蘭草), ylang-ylang(依蘭), sandalwood(檀香), orange blossom(橙花）, essence of Neroli （苦橙花), Brazilian Tonka beans(黑香豆) ... He composes a bouquet of over 80 scents for her. An abstract, mysterious perfume radiating an extravagance floral richness. 

   香奈兒女士鼓勵(lì)他更加大膽，添加更多的茉莉----最昂貴的精華。加上五月薔薇,海地香根草,依蘭,檀香,香橙花,橙花油精華,巴西東加豆……80多種花材變成一捧芬芳的花束。一款抽象而神秘的香水，洋溢著極致馥郁的花香。

For the first time, N°5 transforms the alchemy （ 煉金術(shù)；魔力）of scent through Ernest Beaux's innovative use of aldehydes （醛）, synthetic components which exalt(加強(qiáng)） perfumes, like lemon which accentuates （強(qiáng)調(diào)） the taste of strawberry. Aldehydes add layers of complexity, making N°5 ever more mysterious and impossible to decipher.

  第一次， N°5改寫了香氛的魔法組合。恩尼斯.鮑首次運(yùn)用芳香物質(zhì)--- 乙醛，讓所有成分完美融合， 如同檸檬凸顯草莓的清香。乙醛使得香氣更有層次， 也使得N°5愈加神秘，讓人難以捉摸。 

For the first time, N°5, a code, an identification number, makes the sentimental names for the perfumes of the day seem instantly out of date. It receives its name because Mademoiselle Chanel prefers the fifth sample Ernest Beaux presents to her. According to some, she also chooses the number 5 because of its magical luck-giving qualities.   

  第一次，N°5， 一個(gè)神奇的符號(hào)， 一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)單的數(shù)字， 令當(dāng)時(shí)其他矯揉造作的香水名稱即刻顯得過時(shí)。香奈兒女士選用這個(gè)名字， 因?yàn)樗矚g恩尼斯.鮑給她的第五個(gè)香水樣本。也有人說，她選擇5為香水命名，因?yàn)?是一個(gè)神奇的幸運(yùn)數(shù)字。

For the first time, a perfume is presented in a simple laboratory flacon（有塞小瓶）. Pure, austere（樸素的）, as bare as a vial（小瓶）, the minimal lines of the N°5 bottle distinguishes it from the mannered （矯揉造作的）bottles of the 1920s. Its sobriety（冷靜） ensures its timelessness. By some accounts, its stopper（塞子）, cut like a diamond, is inspired by the geometry of the place Vend?me （凡登廣場(chǎng)）. The original bottle adapts imperceptibly（極微地） to its time. N°5 becomes an icon of the 20th century. In 1959, it is honored by the MOMA of New York. Andy Warhol depicts it in a series of silkscreens.   

  第一次，香水被裝在如同實(shí)驗(yàn)室容器般樸素的瓶中。純凈，簡(jiǎn)潔，沒有任何贅飾。N°5香水瓶的極簡(jiǎn)設(shè)計(jì)，與上世紀(jì)20年代那些矯飾的香水瓶相比，顯得別具一格。完美的比例，讓它成為永恒的經(jīng)典之作。它的瓶蓋，如同完美切割的鉆石， 靈感來自芳登廣場(chǎng)的幾何輪廓。順應(yīng)時(shí)代的變遷， 瓶蓋也有小小的修改。N°5成為20年代的經(jīng)典象征。  1959年，N°5香水成為紐約現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)博物館(MOMA)的永久典藏。安迪·沃霍爾(Andy Warhol)以N°5為主題，創(chuàng)作了一系列的絲印版畫。 

For the first time, at the Liberation of Paris, GI's flock to（蜂擁而至） the Chanel boutique （精品店）on the rue Cambon, lining up to bring bottles of N°5 to wives and fiancébaies waiting at home. From the United States to Japan, the fragrance's fame spreads. It soon becomes the best-selling perfume in the world. For the first time, N°5 pioneers a new form of advertising in the world of fragrance. In 1937, Mademoiselle Chanel herself is photographed at the Ritz for Harper's Bazaar.   

  第一次，當(dāng)二戰(zhàn)的硝煙剛從巴黎散去， 美國大兵便簇?fù)碛诳得鹘值南隳蝺壕返昵埃?nbsp; 排著長隊(duì)購買N°5， 只為帶給在家鄉(xiāng)等候的愛妻或戀人。從西半球到東半球，N°5的美譽(yù)傳開了，很快成為全世界最暢銷的香水。第一次，N°5成為香水廣告的先驅(qū)。1937年，香奈兒女士在麗茲酒店拍攝《時(shí)尚芭莎》，為N°5代言。

For the first time, a fragrance is advertised at the Super Bowl finals. N°5 enjoys dizzying success. For the first time, N°5's place in history is secured （牢固)  when Marilyn Monroe（瑪麗蓮·夢(mèng)露）, at the height of her stardom in 1952, reveals that she wears to bed just a few drops of N°5... For the first time, Jacques Helleu, artistic director of Chanel between 1965 and 2007, features celebrities as incarnations （化身） of the iconic perfume.   

  第一次， 一款香水在超級(jí)碗決賽上做廣告， N°5的成功舉世罕見。第一次， N°5的歷史地位無人能及， 當(dāng)性感女神瑪麗蓮夢(mèng)露在1952年以全球最知名女星的身份，回應(yīng)記者問她穿什么睡覺時(shí)，說道：“ 幾滴N°5...”    第一次， 賈克.海盧， 香奈兒前創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)，從1965年到2007年， 邀請(qǐng)全球最耀眼的明星來詮釋這款經(jīng)典香水。 

In 1968, Catherine Deneuve agrees to lend her French beauty to N°5, followed by Candice Bergen, Suzy Parker, Ali MacGraw, Lauren Hutton, Carole Bouquet, Estella Warren, Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou.

  1968年， 凱瑟琳.德納芙欣然用她的法式優(yōu)雅演繹N°5， 之后代言的名人是坎迪斯·伯根(Candice Bergen)、蘇西·帕克(Suzy Parker)、阿莉·麥克勞(Ali MacGraw)、勞倫·赫頓(Lauren Hutton)、卡羅爾·波桂(Carole Bouquet)、艾絲黛拉·沃倫(Estella Warren)、妮可·基德曼(Nicole Kidman)和奧黛麗·塔圖(Audrey Tautou)。

For the first time in the history of N°5, a man agrees to represent the most feminine of fragrances: Brad Pitt. 

  第一次， 在N°5的歷史上，一位男士同意為這款極致女性化的香水代言：布拉德·皮特(Brad Pitt)。

For the first time, a perfume created in 1921 is still the best-selling and most famous fragrance in the world. N°5 resists the whims（一時(shí)興致） of fashion and the passage of time, as if Mademoiselle Chanel had found the formula for the feminine eternal. 

  第一次， 一款誕生于1921年的香水，仍然是全球最暢銷，最著名的香水。N 5°無懼時(shí)代的變遷， 始終屹立在時(shí)尚浪潮中。香奈兒小姐找到了女人味的永恒奧秘。

香奈兒官方紀(jì)錄片chapter-1N°5 -- For the first time 

https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1ys411S7Sn?from=search&seid=3475449033592925313

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